The Puppy Bites…and who is Supposed to Give the New Owner Good Information to Stop it?


Bop & Daz 005 (Small)I am by no means an ‘expert’ dog trainer.  While I have been paid to train dogs in basic obedience, as well as  for dealing with common behavior issues, I’ve made most of my living grooming dogs, not training.  I’ve put AKC titles on several dogs, and take pride in the accomplishment, but I often refer dog owners to more experienced trainers.

However….I haven’t see this issue addressed, and it needs addressing.  I checked a number of websites (I have links to 2 at the bottom of this post) that specifically address puppy biting, and the methods to stop the biting.  A few sites also address the need for puppies to teeth, and the need for an outlet to their energy.  Most puppies are biting because they were used to playing with their siblings in a litter of pups, and now don’t have that interaction.  You can give them a toy or a bone…but something else is going on:  they are establishing their relationship with YOU, as they would another dog.    Some dogs are just tough little mothas!  You can’t have biting!

You have to  establish that you are in control and   the ‘larger, more experienced dog’ (as it were) by your body language.  However, if you’ve never owned a  puppy before, how do you do this?  Recently, I have encountered  two new puppy owners who were told by the shelters they got the dogs from to sign up for training classes!  Of course that’s a good idea….but  what about  what you are supposed to do right now?  What’s implied is to allow the pup to continue unacceptable behavior until you actually go to classes (or keep the dog crated and away from social interaction), and  both those responses  only cause more problems.

What I’ve been telling people to  do is, first, not give the pup an opportunity to bite.  You have to pick the pup up, groom the pup, and  carry the pup, and give the pup a toy or bone (nylabones are popular) to bite on.  It is important to hold and carry the pup while it is small  so the pup  has the experience of YOU being in control.  MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE DOG’S RUMP, AND PUT A HAND ON THE DOG’S SHOULDERS (WITHERS). The second thing I tell people is, after a 15 minute (or so) play session, when the pup is tired out, to  put the dog in a sitting position (by pressing lightly on the dog’s shoulders), and have the dog make eye contact with you.   Put a finger at the dog’s temple and then at your temple and say, “Watch me.”  This is so important. It only takes a few seconds, you do this 2 or 3 times a day, and you  start to get your pup’s attention.  All the while you are praising the dog for eliminating outside (and teaching the dog to eliminate on command), walk on a leash, come when called.  There are so many good dog training books out there.  My favorites are, “How to be Your Dog’s Best Friend,” by the Monks of New Skete, and “Good Owners, Great Dogs,” by Kilcommons and Wilson.  The Dog Training for Dummies Book is also easy to understand.

I  am a member of North Shore Dog Training Club, one of the oldest in the USA, where many professional trainers train their dogs.  They start when the pups are barely weaned, so by the time the  pups are  six months old, they are  reliably responsive to commands and excellent pets.  This is not rocket science, and it is not magic;  it’s what we know about animal behavior and it is not a secret.
Any  dog breeder/seller/rescue that  does not give out this information is irresponsible.  This is why replacing  commercially bred (puppy mill) dogs with shelter dogs in pet shops—-without training pet shop personnel in what questions to ask of would-be dog owners, doesn’t solve the problem.

 

http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/biting-puppy-how-train-puppy-bites?page=4 ; http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Your-Puppy-to-Stop-Biting

 

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